Getting to the Axle

1. Remove fiber (plastic) skid plate (eight 12mm bolts).
2. Chock Rear Wheels.
3. Lift the side of the truck you want to replace the axle, making sure you have 4-5 inches of height relative to the opposite side (keeps differential oil in the differential when removing the axle). Use Jack stands for safety in conjunction with your floor jack.
4. Remove the wheel center cap and the wheel (five 22mm wheel bolts).
5. Remove the grease cap from the hub flange using flat blade screwdriver (if you are careful you can reuse this cap).
6. Remove the snap ring from the hub end of the axle.
7. Disconnect the brake line brackets and ABS speed sensor with wire harness (One 10mm bolt, three 12mm bolts).
8. Remove the brake caliper from the mount points and support the caliper securely with strap or bungie taking care not to stress the brake line or ABS wire.
9. Remove the upper ball joint cotter pin and 19mm nut.
10. Using your Pitman Arm Puller release the upper ball joint – it will release with a loud bang. Doing this before the lower ball joint gives you room to get an impact gun on the Steering Knuckle bolts.
11. Lift the upper control arm free and be ready to “catch” the hub and brake rotor as it will flop forward.
12. Disconnect the steering knuckle arm by removing two 19mm bolts from the hub, swing the arm and bracket out of the way.
13. Remove the lower ball joint cotter pin and 24mm nut.
14. Using your Pitman Arm Puller release the lower ball joint – it will release with a loud bang.
    1. CAUTION the hub will be free and can fall on you. If you are working alone, thread the 24mm back on the lower ball joint enough to hold the hub in place after the ball joint is released with the puller, then proceed.
    2. Remove hub and set aside.Some writeups suggest separating only the top ball joint at the upper control arm and working the axle free from the inboard side and out from the underside of the A-Arm. This technique works fine (I’ve done it both ways) I think removing the whole hub makes it easier work with the axle. The FSM procedure is what I prefer and describe above. The difference in time separating only the top ball joint is about 7-10 minutes less per side.

Removing the Axle

1. Place a rag or other suitable catch under the differential at the axle side you are working on, you may get some differential oil dripping when you remove the axle.
2. At the differential side, using a 18″ pry bar, begin to pry the axle assembly from the differential. Note the dust cap between the axle and differential, take care not to deform it. If the axle isn’t budging with the pry bar, use your brass drift and (BFH ) hammer to tap it out. The inboard portion of the axle body has a lip specifically designed for this purpose. 
3. Once the axle is free and out of the way, carefully clean around the differential’s axle opening with a clean rag.
4. Using multi-purpose (MP) grease carefully apply to the lip of the differential oil seal

Installing the Axle

1. If you are reusing your old axle (after refurbishment) Toyota suggests installing a new snap ring on the differential side of the axle. If you using new axle assemblies (43430-60040) they come with differential side snap rings preinstalled.
2. Slide the differential side of the axle into the differential making sure the opening on the snap ring is facing downward. If inserted correctly only the last 2.5 inches of the polished assembly will be exposed. If more is showing pull it out, align the snap ring and try again.
3. Using your brass drift and hammer tap the axle into the differential. If that isn’t doing it for you, cover the axles rubber components with a heavy rag to protect it. Get the 3′ long 2×2 lumber and place an edge on the axle’s metal lip (close to the differential) and whack the end sticking out with the hammer. I used the 2×2 method – you can get a lot more energy on the hammer and the soft lumber wont damage the metal of the axle housing. When the axle is inserted completely there will be a 2mm gap between the differential body and axle housing.
4. Lube up the wheel side of the axle with an appropriate hi-temp grease. Make sure to get the grease into the splines completely.
5. Reinstall the wheel hub by reversing steps in Getting to the Axle. 
   1. In order to get the upper ball joint to meet the top of the hub arm (reverse step 10) you need to lower the upper control arm to meet it. Use your 2″ ratcheting strap to pull the upper control arm down.
   2. You will need to us the correct snap ring for the hub side of the axle (Size and Part Numbers in the grid below). They may not be the same size side to side, and may not be the same size as the ones previously removed. For example my new axles needed a 90520-31006 on one side and a 90520-31007 on the other.
6. Be sure to return the nuts and bolts to the correct torque values upon reassembly. See diagram above.
   1. Upper Ball Joint Nut, 81 ft-lbs
   2. Lower Ball Joint Nut, 117 ft-lbs
   3. Steering Knuckle Bolts, 108 ft-lbs
   4. Brake Caliper Bolts, 91 ft-lbs
   5. At the time of installation, if the holes for the cotter pin are not aligned, tighten the nut further up to 60°.
7. After you test drive and confirm quality of work, dont forget to reinstall your belly pan!

  2004 Land Cruiser FSM CV Axle Removal (Excerpt) Hub Side Snap Ring Part Numbers