{"id":795,"date":"2012-05-17T18:36:12","date_gmt":"2012-05-18T01:36:12","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/tlcfaq.com\/main\/?p=795"},"modified":"2014-02-03T18:02:51","modified_gmt":"2014-02-04T02:02:51","slug":"factory-switch-to-control-air-lockers-part-2","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/tlcfaq.com\/main\/2012\/05\/factory-switch-to-control-air-lockers-part-2\/","title":{"rendered":"Factory Switch to Control Air Lockers – Part 2"},"content":{"rendered":"

Article by:\u00a0<\/strong>RobRed<\/p>\n

Applicable Models:\u00a0<\/strong>1998 – 2002 \/ 100 Series\u00a0Land Cruiser\u00a0(2003-2007 with variations in the cluster lamps)<\/p>\nLast updated: February 3, 2014 at 18:02 pm\n

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In this installment of our write up on using factory switches to control aftermarket air lockers we are going to address using a instrument cluster (combination meter) lamp to indicate that our air compressor has been powered up.<\/p>\n

Before we continue… If you mess this up it can DAMAGE your instrument cluster beyond repair. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS if you are not confident in your\u00a0abilities. Seriously this can ruin your day.<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

Before you begin any modification to your vehicle you should fully understand what you are doing and make sure you have the skills to complete the job. TLCFAQ nor it\u2019s authors, commentors or contributors accept any responsibility, or liability for any mishap or problems from any materials posted on the website. Any and all of this can cause serious damage to you or your vehicle. Always consult a qualified professional. I\u2019m Serious. Do this at your own risk.<\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

Lets look at the instrument cluster\u00a0indicator\u00a0lamp map:<\/p>\n

\"cluster_map\"<\/p>\n

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If you have a USA 2000 model what you will notice in the diagram is that the differential locker indicators from other markets have been replaced by SLIP and VSC TRAC. You may also notice 4 blank positions and 3 not used in the USA, Fuel\/Water Separation, Spare Tire Gate Open and Dirty Air Filter. The blanks are covered with a black block off so even if you put a bulb in the slot it wont be visible. Tire Gate Open and Dirty Air Filter are prime for a lamp and in our case we are going to use Dirty Air Filter for our Compressor Armed indicator.<\/p>\n

I purchased a bulb assy 83120-60020 which has a bulb and socket.<\/p>\n

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Phase 1 – Preparing the Socket<\/strong><\/p>\n

Toyota designed the socket assy to simply push into and twist lock to a printed circuit on the instrument cluster. The PCB is always powered. When an event occurs to trigger an indicator, the wire harness feeding the cluster triggers a ground at the appropriate wire in the harness and closes the circuit and the bulb lights. We could simulate this function by using a relay and locating the wire in the harness to feed a ground at the proper time. I didn’t do that. I didn’t want to add the additional relay or tap the factory cluster harness – I wanted complete\u00a0reversibility. I went a simpler way. I wired to the lamp socket directly.<\/p>\n

1 – I\u00a0disassembled\u00a0the socket by gently sliding the contacts up and out
\n2 – I then drilled two small holes in the backside<\/p>\n

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3 – Next I soldered two, 20 awg leads, one to each terminals bottom, making sure the solder point was below the bottom of where the bulb rests.\u00a0Make sure these leads are about 18″ long to give yourself plenty of length to route the wires in the dash.
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\n4 – I gently fed the wires one by one through the holes I drilled \u00a0but left the terminals out a bit.
\n5 – You will notice that the terminals have a 90 degree bend on the back side that is meant to\u00a0touch\u00a0down on the edge of the socket when the terminal is fully seated. In an OEM\u00a0configuration\u00a0these are the\u00a0electrical\u00a0contacts to the PCB. For our purposes we have to remove them as we don’t want any contact with the PCB. I used fingernail clippers to snip them.
\n6 – After you have snipped the old contacts off carefully and gently slide the terminals back into the socket.
\n7 – Gently install the bulb.
\n8 – Using a 12 volt Makita battery or regulated 12 volt power supply test the assembly to make sure it lights up.<\/p>\n

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Notice in the above photo the terminal contacts have been removed – clean plastic.<\/p>\n

Phase 2 – Remove the Steering and Cluster (Combination Meter) Trim<\/strong><\/p>\n

1 – Remove the Cluster\u00a0Finish\u00a0Panel by pulling straight out. it\u2019s held by clips. Be careful as the dash illumination dimmer is on the left side and needs to be unplugged.
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2 – Remove the upper<\/span> steering column cover (clamshell)<\/p>\n