Article by: RobRed

Applicable Models: 1998 – 2007 / 100 Series Land Cruiser

In this series of articles I’m going to be installing a lift on my 2000 Land Cruiser. The components I choose may not be the right ones for your application so consult a professional suspension specialist to advise you on the best choices for your loads and driving style.

The components for my install are Old Man Emu (OME) rear coil springs and front torsion bar springs. I’m looking to do the medium 2.5 inch lift so I chose 2860 rear springs to go with 303001 front torsion bars.

Before you begin any modification to your vehicle you should fully understand what you are doing and make sure you have the skills to complete the job. TLCFAQ nor it’s authors, commentors or contributors accept any responsibility, or liability for any mishap or problems from any materials posted on the website. Any and all of this can cause serious damage to you or your vehicle. Always consult a qualified professional. I’m Serious. Do this at your own risk.

Conventions:

This example is for a 2000 Land Cruiser in the USA, LHD

DRIVERS side = Left side of the vehicle as if you are sitting in it,

PASSENGER side = the right side

ASB = Anti Sway Bar

Tools Needed for Part 1

• Wheel Chocks (for Front Wheels)
• Floor Jack x2 or Floor Jack and your factory Bottle Jack
• HD Jack Stands x2
• Socket Drive
• 17mm Socket
• 12mm Socket
• Rubber Mallet
• Small Pry Bar

Rear Spring Install

• Chock your front wheels
• Lift truck and place on jack stands at points just in front of the lower control arms mounting on both PASSENGER and DRIVERS side. Once the truck is on jack stands there should be about 3″ under the rear tire.
• Remove both rear wheels
• Locate the brake line and rear differential breather line connected to the center of the rear axle and differential.  Follow the lines up to the frame of the truck, locate there brackets and remove the 12mm bolt (one each) to free the lines from the frame. This may be easier if you remove your spare tire from the underside mount first and set aside.
• Remove upper ASB bracket on both passenger and driver side [Pic of Bracket] 12mm head bolts
• Place your floor jack plate under the Drivers lower shock mount [pic of mount with Jack]
• Disconnect the lower rear shock mount on the DRIVERS Side. 17mm head bolts [pic of Shock mount] You may need to pry the shock off the mount with a pry tool – I used the wooden handle of my rubber mallet to pop it free.
• We are now ready to remove the DRIVERS side spring by doing the following;
• Place your second floor jack (or bottle jack) plate under the PASSENGER lower shock mount [pic of mount with Jack]
• Lift the PASSENGER side of the axle with the second jack until the PASSENGER wheel hub is near maximum lift. ON the DRIVERS jack slowly release the pressure and the drivers side will start to droop [pic of droop]
• Once you have drooped the DRIVERS axle low enough the rear spring will easily rotate out. You may have to fiddle with the PASSENGER jack to get the droop sufficient to let the DRIVERS spring free.
• Note the position of the bottom of the spring as there is an index point in the lower mount the new spring needs to rest against. There is also a rubber gasket at the top of the spring that may or may not stay in place when removing the old spring – the gasket can be reused. If the spring doesn’t come out easily the axle isn’t low enough.
• Place the new DRIVERS side spring in the perch making sure to index the bottom coil to the stop and make sure the upper gasket is in place.

In the USA 100 Series Land Cruiser the factory springs are 6mm longer on the DRIVERS side and your OME kit may have different length rear springs supplied. If that’s the case then the longer OME spring goes where your longer stock spring was. In our case the 2860 “B” spring is longer than “A” by 10mm so the “B” spring goes to the left (DRIVERS) side perch

• Next level out the rear axle;
• With your new DRIVERS spring in place lift the DRIVERS side of the axle with the jack that’s under your drooping shock mount. Get the drivers hub so it’s perpendicular to the the body of the truck. Release some pressure on your PASSENGER jack to lower the hub to a normal articulation point in the wheel well and level the axle in it’s mounts.
• Reconnect the lower rear shock mount on the DRIVERS Side. You may need to tap the shock onto the mount with a rubber mallet to pop it on. Play with the axle level with the DRIVERS side jack to get the eyelet to match the mounting pin. Replace 17mm head bolt. Torque to Factory specified value.
• We are now ready to remove the PASSENGER side spring by doing the following;
• Lift the DRIVERS side of the axle with the FIRST jack until the PASSENGER wheel hub is near maximum lift. ON the PASSENGER jack slowly release the pressure and the PASSENGER side will start to droop [pic of droop]
• Once you have drooped the PASSENGER axle low enough the rear spring will easily rotate out. You may have to fiddle with the DRIVER jack to get the droop sufficient to let the PASSENGER spring free.
• Just like the DRIVERS side, note the position of the bottom of the spring as there is an index point in the lower mount the new spring needs to rest against. There is also a rubber gasket at the top of the spring that may or may not stay in place when removing the old spring – the gasket can be reused. If the spring doesn’t come out easily the axle isn’t low enough.
• Place the new PASSENGER side spring in the perch making sure to index the bottom coil to the stop and make sure the upper gasket is in place.
• Next level out the rear axle;
• With your new PASSENGER spring in place lift the PASSENGER side of the axle with the jack that’s under your drooping shock mount. Get the PASSENGER hub so it’s perpendicular to the the body of the truck. Release some pressure on your DRIVERS side jack to lower the hub to a normal articulation point in the wheel well and level the axle in it’s mounts.
• Reconnect the lower rear shock mount on the PASSENGER Side. You may need to tap the shock onto the mount with a rubber mallet to pop it on. Play with the axle level with the PASSENGER side jack to get the eyelet to match the mounting pin. Replace 17mm head bolt. Torque to Factory specified value.
• Reconnect your ASB brackets using the two 12mm head bolts on each side
• Reconnect your brake line and rear differential breather line brackets to the frame with the 12mm bolt (one each).
• Remount your rear wheels.
• Remove the floor jacks. Take one of the jacks and lift the DRIVERS side of the frame to remove the jack stand. Repeat for the PASSENGER side. The truck should now be on it’s wheels and the rear end is higher than before.

In part 2 I will cover the front torsion bar install and adjusting the ride height.