Article by: RobRed

Applicable Models: 200 Series (2008-2022)

Project Vehicle: 2017 Land Cruiser

Parts Installed: ARB Twin Air Compressor (CKMTA12), ARB Air Compressor Manifold Kit (171503), ARB Hose Coupling 171402, Slee Offroad 2008+ Land Cruiser / LX570 ARB Single or Twin Compressor Bracket

Tools Needed: 10mm socket, 10mm box end wrench, 12mm socket, 12mm box end wrench,
Phillips screw driver #1, Teflon tape

Optional: Spacers for compressor mount, (4x) longer M6 bolts for compressor mounting if spacers are used, tiny (3/16) round file OR drill and 3/16 bit to improve Slee relay bracket holes

Last updated: October 9, 2021 at 15:42 pm

I’ve had my 2017 Land Cruiser 200 series for about 3 months and I decided to begin my 200 series mods with some convenience items. I love my ARB twin compressor on the 100 series and with Slee Offroad making a very nice bracket for the application what could be simpler? In this article I’ll be discussing the mechanical side of the install, that is the hardware. In Part 2 I will discuss the wiring of the compressor and control switch.

My Plan is pretty straight forward: get the compressor installed on the bracket then work on the changes in the engine bay dictated by the compressor mount. Slee provides instructions that are generally good but lack some detail, especially in the black and white photos. The instructions are printed from a office quality laser printer and not photo realistic. I’d recommend you look at the instructions online to the images in color.

Lets take a look at what we are working with:

First thing to do is a parts check with the components to be installed.

Compressor kit includes mounting hardware, wire harnesses for power and control switch, the control switch itself and thorough instructions. The manifold kit includes basic hardware, mount bracket and steel braided hose with fittings for the compressor and manifold ends. I also purchased ARB Hose Coupling 171402 for the manifold.

The Slee mount includes all the hardware including an additional support bracket and a relay relocation bracket. In the parts checklist described in the instructions provided and also shown in the Slee web photo (see above) is (2) Push-on 90 degree air fittings and a length of 1/4″ airline… these items were missing. Slee no longer includes these items and has updated the instructions for the kit. The ARB manifold comes with an air hose and fittings to the compressor so Slee does includes a 90 degree fitting and the updated instruction show how to use that fitting plus the manifolds included steel braid air line. I essentially received a new kit with old instructions.

For me I prefer the lower profile of the push-on connectors so it was very disappointing that these were shown to be part of the kit but not included. I made a trip to my local supply house and $12 later I was in business.

Let’s Get Going

First I mounted the compressor to the Slee bracket using the compressors included hardware. Once I confirmed the compressor orientation I used the inboard mounting holes on the Slee bracket,  The holes on the outside of the bracket didn’t properly align with the compressor. The outer mounting holes are likely for other applications – no big deal. I mounted the manifold next. I used the two lower holes on the manifold bracket and secured to the Slee bracket. Next I attached the 90 degree Push-on air fittings to the compressor and manifold respectively using Teflon tape on the threads. I installed the ARB hose coupling into the manifold using Teflon tape on the threads. Finally I inserted a length of 1/4″ ID air tubing in the air fittings and the set the assembly aside for now.

Moving to the Land Cruiser itself I deviated from the the Slee instructions. Slee calls out to disconnect the battery ground, then remove the connectors from the identified relays, I chose to leave all connected as there is enough play in the wiring to move them without issue.

So I removed the factory relay bracket (10mm bolts) from the LC then removed the relays (4 Phillips screws) and ground wire (10mm bolt) from the factory bracket. Next I routed the ground wire and attached at the firewire per Slee instructions using a Slee supplied M6 flange nut. I then began the process of mounting the relays to the included Slee bracket. Trouble starts. The 4 holes on the Slee bracket do not align with the relays.

I don’t have a file that small so I had to use a drill bit to hog out the holes to achieve alignment to attach the relays to the Slee bracket. Not a huge deal but 30 minutes used to fix this. After getting the relays mounted I attached the relay bracket per Slee instructions.

I removed the AC piping support bracket bolt (step 6A/6B) and replaced with Slee supplied M6 bolt leaving it loose (step 7B).

Next I moved the Compressor and Bracket assembly into position and loosely fit the fender side bolts and slid the main support leg into position behind the piping bracket. I moved the secondary support leg into position and installed the flange nut finger tight over the captured bolt in the Slee bracket. Here’s where some things get interesting… First, some relay wiring makes contact with the Slee bracket secondary support leg. Second, the right air filter on the compressor makes contact the Land Cruiser fuse box latch.

“We Fixed the Glitch”

I mitigated the wiring contact on the support leg by twisting the relay bracket about 15 degrees (see photo below). No big deal. Take care to make sure the relays and bracket are not interfering with any wiring or brake lines.

The compressor contact to the fuse box is a bit more challenging:

• Move as far back as practical on Slee bracket but manifold mount bolt contacts so cant go all the way
• Hog out fender side bracket mounting holes to lift compressor up to avoid fuse box contact
• Add spacers to underside of compressor to lift compressor up

So I choose to lift the compressor up with spacers because I didn’t want to modify the Slee bracket mounting holes. I didn’t have any steel spacers handy but i did have some M8 nuts that were about 10mm in thickness. I made a quick dash to my local hardware store and acquired some M6 bolts that were about 15mm longer than the supplied compressor mounting bolts. Using the nuts as spacers I remounted the compressor to the Slee bracket and test fit. Yahtzee!

I tightened everything up and declared victory. As I closed the hood I realized something was making contact. Sh*t. As I lifted the hood I realized what it was… the 90 degree push on air fitting at the compressor was interfering. The ARB compressor has the ability to adjust the output port about 45 degrees which should fix this… problem was I have to remove the compressor to get at the bolts to do it. I unbolted the compressor bracket assembly from the LC and went to work. Following the ARB instructions I angled the output of the compressor and reassembled to the Slee bracket. Reinstalled in the Land Cruiser and everything appears to clear. One note on the hood clearance; The 2017 LC has a particularly thick sound deadener on the underside of the hood. When closing the hood the compressor will touch and slightly press into the deadener.

Notes and Conclusion

The Slee bracket is very high quality and I would recommend it even with the glitches mentioned above. There may be slight model year variation on the relay bracket causing the misalignment I experienced. Definitely talk to Slee prior to purchase and make sure all is well.

Operationally you’ll need to remove the right side compressor air filter to unlatch the fuse box lid. Not a huge deal to pop off the filter but still kind of annoying. It’s entirely possible that there would not be interference between the compressor filter and fuse box if you could slide the compressor all the way back in bracket – the manifold mounting hardware interferes with that as well as moving the compressor backward will intrude on the brake fluid reservoir.

Though the compressor is not wired yet the ARB compressor itself is a known quantity. I run it on my 100 series and I’ve been very happy with it. It has significantly more output than the single version (probably double right?) and the duty cycle is 100%. It could power a modest air tool but for serious air tools you’d still want to run an air tank.

I’m waiting for a OEM style switch to arrive so I can power up the compressor from the cockpit. Once this comes I’ll be ready to post Part 2 – the Electrical.